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Seydou Keïta

Seydou Keïta (1921 - 2001) was one of the most celebrated West African photographers. Born in 1921, Bamako, Mali, Seydou Keïta’s photographs eloquently portray Bamako society during its era of transition from a cosmopolitan French colony to an independent capital. Initially trained by his father to be a carpenter, Keïta’s career as a photographer was launched in 1935 by an uncle who gave him his first camera, a Kodak Brownie Flash, which he had purchased during a trip to Senegal. During his adolescence Keïta mastered the technical challenges of shooting and printing; he later purchased a large-format camera. The larger format not only offered an exceptional degree of resolution, it also made it possible for Keïta to make high quality contact prints without the aid of an enlarger. In 1948 he opened his own studio in Bamako and he quickly built up a successful business.
Whether photographing single individuals, families, or professional associations, Keïta balanced a strict sense of formality with a remarkable level of intimacy with his subjects. Like many professional photographers, he furnished his studio with numerous props, from backdrops and costumes, to Vespas and luxury cars. He would renew these props every few years, which later allowed him to establish a chronology for his work. Keïta commented on his studio practice, “It’s easy to take a photo, but what really made a difference was that I always knew how to find the right position, and I was never wrong. Their head slightly turned, a serious face, the position of the hands . . . I was capable of making someone look really good.”

Images of Power: African Presidents on Printed Fabrics

"Fancy print" textiles produced in Europe for the markets of colonial Africa emerged in the 1920s as a cheaper substitute for so-called "Dutch wax" resin-resist prints. Although they were of lower quality and the design was only on one face, they had one distinct advantage which soon opened up a new range of decorative possibilities and hence a novel social role. Unlike wax prints, the technology of fancy prints allowed for the reproduction of photographic imagery. Very quickly the technique was adopted to produce what have become known as commemorative cloths. At first these were for funerary uses, hardly surprising given the importance of funerary ceremonies in the Gold Coast (present day Ghana), where a 1928 sample in the archives of the United Africa Company shows a woman, presumably a wealthy market trader, named only as "Mammy," while another from 1931 showed a then deceased Ewe chief. However there is also a cloth believed to date to the 1930s that shows Kojo Thompson, a prominent campaigner for independence (Picton 2001:161.) Other cloths commemorated specific events such as a visit to the Gold Coast by the Prince of Wales. 

In many parts of Africa there is a long tradition of leaders, chiefs and "big" men and women distributing cloth to their followers. The new leaders of independent Africa in the 1960s were quick to adopt the medium of fancy printed cloths to promote themselves within the expectations framed by these traditions. Cloths were printed at government expense and distributed free or at subsidised prices via market women either to promote specific events, political campaigns, or as part of a more general policy of self-promotion. Wearing such a cloth was often advisable as an outwardly visible expression of allegiance to the ruling powers whatever the wearer's actual sentiments. 

The cloths displayed here are part of a private collection focused on Francophone African countries. No doubt interesting parallels and differences could be found in a comparative study of commemorative cloths from other areas of Africa.  The collector, M. Bernard Collet would like to hear from others who share his interest in these remarkable textiles

shineshine

http://www.shineshine.co.za/

commemorative cloths

Colourful African commemorative cloths in the Tropenmuseum

In the exhibition ‘Long Live the President!’ the Tropenmuseum showcases a colourful, contemporary African textile tradition. Key figures in the continent’s modern history are featured on more than 100 commemorative cloths. The cloths include portraits of individuals who have played an important role in the relatively short history of over 30 African countries, from Senegal to South Africa. Many prominent Africans have been immortalised on textile, including Nkrumah, Mobutu and Mandela, along with beloved visitors such as Pope John Paul II and Barack Obama. The exhibition runs from 2 April to 29 August 2010.
Important people and significant events are honoured with a special cloth in virtually every African country. Textile is used to commemorate everything from independence treaties to presidential elections, visits from heads of state and deaths of family members in bold, colourful patterns. The cloths are sold at markets or given to followers, party or family members.
The commemorative cloths are often worn by women as a wrapper. In some cases they are cut into shirts or costumes. The exhibition ‘Long Live the President!’ includes an outfit that incorporates dozens of images of Nelson Mandela. The cloths serve as propaganda and as a memento. They are generally worn for a short period of time and saved for posterity.
Dutch roots
The design and production of commemorative cloths for the African market began over 80 years ago. Business in printed textile was booming at the time. European textile merchants had begun exploring the African market at the end of the 19th century. The Netherlands played a key role: Vlisco, a textile manufacturer in Helmond, still produces “Dutch wax” prints for the African market. The printing technique was developed to imitate the Indonesian batik style. Although wax printing was used to produce the earliest African portrait cloths it was quickly replaced by so called “fancy print” textiles. Fancy print technology allows for more details. Today, the majority of commemorative cloths are produced in Africa.
A unique parade
The exhibition in the Tropenmuseum presents over 115 cloths from more than 30 countries. The oldest was printed in 1957, when Ghana became the first independent country in Africa. The most recent cloths include tributes to Jacob Zuma and Michael Jackson from 2009. Together the cloths provide a survey of important political leaders from independent Africa as well as insight into propaganda techniques, fashion trends, the attention paid to “big” figures, and the formation of national identities.
African portrait cloths are a form of popular culture that is both appealing and little known; at the same time, they offer an intriguing socio-historical document. The cloths are presented alongside photographs, film clips, music and information about the people and events depicted. The cloths are from the Tropenmuseum’s collection and several private collections.
Publication
The exhibit also includes a lavishly illustrated companion publication in English. The book contains a concise history of the production and evolution of African commemorative portrait cloths and large-scale reproductions of the most notable cloths from the exhibition. Price: €19.50.