The Influence of ‘Foreignness’: How Immigration and Imported Commodities affected England’s Cloth Industries and Consumer Habits, 1685-1755

http://www.vam.ac.uk/users/node/5590

Glossary 

Terms that appear in the text without explanation 

Alamode a thin, lightweight, glossy silk used for scarves and hoods 

Batiste a fine, even weaved linen. Also known as Cambric (the synonym of the French word) 

Bizarre a figured silk fabric, characterized by large-scale, asymmetrical patterns 

Bombazine dress material entirely of silk, later of silk and cotton 

Calendering the glazed finish given to calicoes 

Callicoe (Calico) a plain cotton which could be and often was printed 

Chintz From the Hindi word chint, meaning variegated. A printed or painted calico. A glazed printed cotton (the glaze perhaps not visible today) distinguished in the mid eighteenth century as a cotton printed with five or more colours, the pattern a little larger than usual and very colourful 

Damask a reversible figured fabric of silk, with a pattern formed by weaving 

Dimity a fine cotton, usually white, with a raised woven design, also white 

Flower’d (Flowered) was the generic term for a free pattern, since at this period such patterns were always composed from flowers. The weavers of ‘flowered’ silks formed a distinct branch of the industry. The same terminology was carried across to the newer calico-printing industry 

Holland became the generic term for a fine linen cloth 

Lawn/Long lawn a very fine linen. The term has not changed its meaning. ‘Long’ lawn may refer to the length of the piece in which it was woven 

Lorettos a silk material used for waistcoats 

Lustring a soft silk which might be either plain or flowered 

Muslin a general name for the most delicately woven cotton fabrics 

Paduasway (Paduasoy) an expensive, heavy, strong silk, often patterned or figured, made from the best quality silk. 

Persian a thin soft silk used most often for linings 

Sarsenet a very fine and soft silk material made both plain and twilled in various colors and used especially for linings and ribbons. 

Sateen: a cotton imitation of satin 5 

Satin a silk fabric with a glossy surface 

Taffeties a light thin silk of high luster used especially as a dress fabric 

Tambour embroidery using a basic chain stitch on the top of the fabric, using a specially made tambour needle 

Throwster a person involved in the process where silk that has been reeled into skeins, is cleaned, receives a twist and is wound onto bobbins. 

Bizarre Seide

1. Hälfte 18. Jahrhundert; Stoff: um 1710/1720
Gegen Ende des 17. Jahrhunderts gelang es Frankreich, in der europäischen Seidenweberei die führende Rolle zu übernehmen. Bis dahin waren die italienischen Weber den französischen in technischer Hinsicht weit überlegen, und auch die Muster der italienischen Seiden waren im 17. Jahrhundert richtungweisend. Fortan sollten vor allem die Seiden aus Lyon denjenigen aus Italien Konkurrenz machen. Gefördert wurde diese Entwicklung zudem durch die gezielte Ausbildung von Musterzeichnern, so z. B. durch die 1756 in Lyon gegründete Schule für Entwerfer. Zu den ersten Mustergruppen, die bereits gegen Ende des 17. Jahrhunderts entwickelt wurden und von Frankreich ausgehend den europäischen Markt eroberten, zählen die von den Zeitgenossen als "Furienwerk", seit dem 20. Jahrhundert unter dem Begriff "bizarre Seiden" zusammengefassten Gewebe. Ihre ungewöhnliche Art der Musterung mit oftmals dynamischen, phantastischen Formen, sprunghaften Richtungswechseln und bisweilen dennoch erkennbaren Gegenständen weist ostasiatische Einflüsse auf. Als Inspirationsquelle dienten sicher exotische Importe wie Porzellan, Lackarbeiten und Textilien.

entspricht das soie pirate???