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Glossary
Terms that appear in the text without explanation
Alamode a thin, lightweight, glossy silk used for scarves and hoods
Batiste a fine, even weaved linen. Also known as Cambric (the synonym of the French word)
Bizarre a figured silk fabric, characterized by large-scale, asymmetrical patterns
Bombazine dress material entirely of silk, later of silk and cotton
Calendering the glazed finish given to calicoes
Callicoe (Calico) a plain cotton which could be and often was printed
Chintz From the Hindi word chint, meaning variegated. A printed or painted calico. A glazed printed cotton (the glaze perhaps not visible today) distinguished in the mid eighteenth century as a cotton printed with five or more colours, the pattern a little larger than usual and very colourful
Damask a reversible figured fabric of silk, with a pattern formed by weaving
Dimity a fine cotton, usually white, with a raised woven design, also white
Flower’d (Flowered) was the generic term for a free pattern, since at this period such patterns were always composed from flowers. The weavers of ‘flowered’ silks formed a distinct branch of the industry. The same terminology was carried across to the newer calico-printing industry
Holland became the generic term for a fine linen cloth
Lawn/Long lawn a very fine linen. The term has not changed its meaning. ‘Long’ lawn may refer to the length of the piece in which it was woven
Lorettos a silk material used for waistcoats
Lustring a soft silk which might be either plain or flowered
Muslin a general name for the most delicately woven cotton fabrics
Paduasway (Paduasoy) an expensive, heavy, strong silk, often patterned or figured, made from the best quality silk.
Persian a thin soft silk used most often for linings
Sarsenet a very fine and soft silk material made both plain and twilled in various colors and used especially for linings and ribbons.
Sateen: a cotton imitation of satin 5
Satin a silk fabric with a glossy surface
Taffeties a light thin silk of high luster used especially as a dress fabric
Tambour embroidery using a basic chain stitch on the top of the fabric, using a specially made tambour needle
Throwster a person involved in the process where silk that has been reeled into skeins, is cleaned, receives a twist and is wound onto bobbins.

