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18.09.2015

The Influence of ‘Foreignness’: How Immigration and Imported Commodities affected England’s Cloth Industries and Consumer Habits, 1685-1755

http://www.vam.ac.uk/users/node/5590


Glossary 
Terms that appear in the text without explanation 
Alamode a thin, lightweight, glossy silk used for scarves and hoods 
Batiste a fine, even weaved linen. Also known as Cambric (the synonym of the French word) 
Bizarre a figured silk fabric, characterized by large-scale, asymmetrical patterns 
Bombazine dress material entirely of silk, later of silk and cotton 
Calendering the glazed finish given to calicoes 
Callicoe (Calico) a plain cotton which could be and often was printed 
Chintz From the Hindi word chint, meaning variegated. A printed or painted calico. A glazed printed cotton (the glaze perhaps not visible today) distinguished in the mid eighteenth century as a cotton printed with five or more colours, the pattern a little larger than usual and very colourful 
Damask a reversible figured fabric of silk, with a pattern formed by weaving 
Dimity a fine cotton, usually white, with a raised woven design, also white 
Flower’d (Flowered) was the generic term for a free pattern, since at this period such patterns were always composed from flowers. The weavers of ‘flowered’ silks formed a distinct branch of the industry. The same terminology was carried across to the newer calico-printing industry 
Holland became the generic term for a fine linen cloth 
Lawn/Long lawn a very fine linen. The term has not changed its meaning. ‘Long’ lawn may refer to the length of the piece in which it was woven 
Lorettos a silk material used for waistcoats 
Lustring a soft silk which might be either plain or flowered 
Muslin a general name for the most delicately woven cotton fabrics 
Paduasway (Paduasoy) an expensive, heavy, strong silk, often patterned or figured, made from the best quality silk. 
Persian a thin soft silk used most often for linings 
Sarsenet a very fine and soft silk material made both plain and twilled in various colors and used especially for linings and ribbons. 
Sateen: a cotton imitation of satin 5 
Satin a silk fabric with a glossy surface 
Taffeties a light thin silk of high luster used especially as a dress fabric 
Tambour embroidery using a basic chain stitch on the top of the fabric, using a specially made tambour needle 
Throwster a person involved in the process where silk that has been reeled into skeins, is cleaned, receives a twist and is wound onto bobbins.